2006 Schloss Gobelsburg – Gruner Veltliner Tradition
Many things in this world are much better when experienced at the source. Guinness is better in Ireland, pizza is better in Italy, and Shiraz is better down under in Australia. I never thought much of Gruner Veltliner as a marquee grape until I went to Austria and drank the juice from where the grape is well known. Most Gruner is made to be served very young in Heurigers, bar/restaurants that sort of double as social drinking halls. Unlike a typical bar, Heurigers serve only their own wine.
Plenty of Gruner Veltliner, though, is made to last. The less-expensive examples come off very springy and spritzy, almost like a cheap Prosecco even though Gruner’s aren’t made to be sparkling. At it’s best, the wine is full bodied and deep, like a top-flight Viognier. My favorite Gruners carry a weight that is uncommon in white wines, all without blowing oak up your nose or butter in your gullet.
This was the last Gruner we brought back from that trip and it was really impressive.
Pale yellow straw color. Thick and oily. The bottle was too cold out of the gate so I didn’t get much in my nose besides some forest and petrol. The taste was lively, acidic, and just okay. As the wine warmed, though, it took on weight and balance. By the end of the bottle it was really singing. Grapefruit, floral flavors, and that mid-European airport-like petrol feel to it. Great finish, long, lingering and nice.
February 10th, 2010 at 4:05 am
Indeed..Guinness IS better in Ireland !!