Norton: The Little Grape That Couldn’t
I never got into Norton. At wine fairs, people are always telling me that Norton (along with Viognier) is “Virginia’s grape.” The grape is far more common in Virginia than anywhere else. Perhaps because of some heritage thing, perhaps because it’s what is planted so it will continue to be the source of much of the wine. Chrysalis Vineyards has almost 70 acres of the stuff growing. Would be tough to pull all that up and replant something new.
I’ve never had a Norton that I would buy, never even had one that I thought was very good. Hey, Norton, what gives?
Washington DC wine writer Dave McIntyre blogged about his article in the Washington Post about a book about the Norton grape called The Wild Vine by Todd Kilman. Kilman apparently paints Norton as an underdog story, repeatedly getting stamped out just as it gains traction in the wine world. McIntyre paints a favorable picture of the book, writing…
But in the hands of Kliman, the author as vintner, [Norton] makes a fascinating story, complex and with a haunting finish.
Makes it sound like a good read. I’m always fascinated by wine books. It’s a testament to the authors that they can make something so apparently innocuous and boring (A grape) and write book after book about it. Most of the books are interesting, even. McIntyre “highly recommends” this one.
July 20th, 2010 at 5:20 pm
Don’t feel bad. It took my wife a while to come around to Norton, but she’s finally there. I’m a believer that if you haven’t found a good Norton, you haven’t tried enough yet.
July 21st, 2010 at 5:26 am
Given your prolific experience with Virginia wine, I’ll take your advice and keep drinking until I find something. Thanks!
July 30th, 2010 at 4:17 am
Yep, you almost got it correct trying to put a bit of South in your mouth. There are 190 Norton vineyards in 22 states now. As for individual states, Missouri is the top producer with 62 Norton vineyards compared to 30 in Virginia. We have tried almost 90 of these wines so far and would recommend the following vineyard examples by state: White Oaks Vineyards (AL); Three Sister (GA); Century Farms (TN); Elk Creek (KY); Cooper, Castle Gruen (VA); Stone Mountain Cellars (PA), Blumenhof, Heinrichshaus, Stone Hill’s Cross J, Adam Puchta, and Robller (MO). Norton wines should not be compared to California or French wines. Realize this is a dry American wine which is a bit course & rowdy and is an acquired taste for most people. Most Norton wines are not for “drink now”, but need to be tasted early for its tannins and possible “drink later” storage. Older bottles (six-to-ten years) will have you singing praises to this grape. An example of this was presenting to one Napa Snob and another French Knowitall a seven year old Missouri Norton (Augusta Winery – MO). Both men admittedly had no idea what they were drinking, but both came to the same conclusion, ~ “we have no idea what this is, but this is what wine is suppose to taste like”.
Kliman’s American wine book reads like a novel revealing the migration of this unique grape. To truly enjoy this book, one must have a Norton wine which has had the opportunity to breathe for at least 30 minutes. First sip will be a little tough because of the palates’ malic reaction, but second sip will be dramatically better, etc.
April 26th, 2011 at 2:02 am
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